Getting your deck boat or pontoon ready for the season is a lot like getting it ready to sell. You want it to look good and operate without any problems. That means you need to do a little preparation before you take it out for the first time. The last thing an owner wants is to experience an engine failure on the first boating weekend of the season!
To make sure the first flotation is good for the family, let’s talk about a little spring season preparation. There is no way we can go over all the details necessary. Each boat is going to be different, along with each boat owner and what they feel comfortable undertaking.
But one of the most important parts of your boat is the engine. Sure the pontoons need to be cleaned and checked for damage or leaks. And the decking needs to be checked for soft spots and the seats and carpet need to be cleaned. But if there is no engine, there’s no boating. Oh, guess you could float, but, really?
It doesn’t matter if you have an inboard or outboard engine, the basics are the same. If you didn’t change the engine oil before storing, now is the time to do it. Oil is the life blood of an engine and needs to be able to efficiently lubricate and cool the engine. Oil is also cheap when compared to an engine overhaul. Reference your engine service manual for recommendations as to the recommended oil change intervals.
If your engine was winterized and treated for storage, you will probably need to clean or replace the spark plugs and change the fuel filters. It is easiest to just replace the old spark plugs with new ones, but if you are saving a few bucks you can also clean and re-gap the old ones. All you need is a small stiff bristled wire brush and a gapping tool.
Don’t forget to change the fuel filter and/or water separator before you head out on the water. Also make sure you have the tools and extra fuel filters onboard before you go out for your first run. Many a boater has made it out on the water just far enough not to get back and had crud plug the filter, stopping the engine. Which reminds me: did you treat the fuels system with a fuel additive like Sea Foam or STA-BIL?
Cooling systems should be checked and the fluid replaced or added to as necessary. All hoses, wires and belts should be inspected and replaced if dry or cracked. It is a good idea to carry an extra belt or two with you, along with the appropriate tools to change it. Belt tension should be adjusted per the factory service manual’s recommendations.
Transmission fluid if any, hydraulic fluids (power steering, power tilt) and oil injection tanks should all be inspected and refilled. While you are at it, check the bellows on the stern drive, packing or stuffing boxes hinge points, U joints, etc. Fittings, cables and connections should be lubricated. Many of the components will have grease fitting so that they can be lubricated using a grease gun.
The lower unit, drive shafts and propellers should be inspected for nicks and damage. Basic aluminum propellers (especially on lower horsepower engines) can have minor nicks filed by hand. Paint can be touched up with a spray can from a home supply or auto parts store. But if you have brass, stainless, adjustable blades or any other type of high performance propeller, don’t take the chance of trying to fix it yourself. Take the propeller to a good prop shop and have it repaired and balanced. Make sure that when you remove the propeller you lubricate the shaft to prevent corrosion and assist in removal in the future. It is always a good idea to have a backup prop on hand along with the appropriate nut or cotter keys.
With a little preventative maintenance, the first time back on the water after the cold winter season will find you accelerating into another fun-filled ‘tooning adventure.
